Garden roses as cut flowers: brief introduction to different classes of modern roses and why it’s helpful to know

What is a modern rose?

The ancestors of today’s modern roses can be traced back for millenia. Over the last few hundred years, various species roses were transported from different areas of the globe and hybridized to create varieties that offered more desirable ornamental characteristics. Old Garden Roses, most of which generally bloom only once per year, are non-species roses that existed prior to 1867; Modern Roses are considered to be the repeat blooming classes introduced after this date. This is a gross oversimplification of a complex lineage, a thorough discussion of which would take several pages, if not a whole book! Another important note is that florist or trade roses are a completely different beast from garden roses. Up until this point, plant stock of florist roses has not been legally available outside a select few, large growers, but changes are afoot in this area! This post will focus on the various classes of garden roses suitable for cut flowers that are currently available to home gardeners and small scale flower farmers.

What are the different classes of modern roses suitable for cut flowers?

Each class of garden rose has its own plant habit, growth and bloom characteristics. In order of prevalence, the most represented classes in my field are the floribunda, hybrid tea, shrub, grandiflora and climbers.

Why is it helpful to know your class of rose?

Generally speaking, various classes are pruned similarly and may share other cultural requirements. It will also help you to anticipate volume and frequency of flowers. Personally, when selecting plants to grow, I find it prudent to not focus solely on the picture of the flower. It’s very helpful to have an idea of plant habit, size, and performance whether a single rose bush will be placed in a garden, or groups will be planted in blocks. Similarly, when using stems for floral design, the nature of the stem and bloom orientation will be important factors to consider (straight, rigid stem with upward facing bloom vs arching with a graceful bend or nodding blooms).

This is analogous to dahlias, where if there’s a choice between similar varieties, it may be preferable to select the cultivar with better bloom attachment, orientation (the annoying clock face) or adjust numbers of plants based on productivity. Likewise with peonies, where lactiflora varieties will have many sidebuds and hybrids will have single blooms per stem; whether the former is desirable or not will be determined by what outcome or look is important to you (clusters of flowers that will appear like a bouquet on a stem but oftentimes require mechanical support, or the need to disbud to store/handle efficiently). Since plants within a class share similarities, one can more easily choose between 2 equally beautiful blush roses whether, say, the English style or hybrid tea will be a preferable choice for you.

Floribundas as cut flowers: characteristics and example cultivars

  • Floribundas are the result of a cross between hybrid teas (large blooms) and polyanthas (better disease resistance, sturdier and less fussy than hybrid teas).

  • Flowers are smaller than hybrid teas and tend to bloom in clusters, occasionally one bloom per stem; shorter time between bloom cycles than hybrid teas. Generally hardier than hybrid teas and shorter in height than hybrid teas or grandifloras.

  • Can harvest for terminal bud or cluster depending on the desired look/feel.

  • In my climate, disease resistance varies quite a bit between Floribunda cultivars. They are not always more disease resistant than certain hybrid teas!

  • Popular examples include: Honey Dijon, Koko Loko, Distant Drums, Hot Cocoa (see photos)

Hybrid teas, a natural cut flower class

  • Very upright habit with long, tall canes (usually, there are shorter HTs) that yield straight, sturdy stems. In a garden setting, good candidate for companion planting to hide the “legs.”

  • Bloom size is large (4”+ diameter), single flower per stem; usually highly fragrant.

  • Must pay attention to hardiness; disease resistance can be terrible depending on variety (though how long ago the variety was hybridized is more of a determining factor).

  • Often benefits from taking back some height before winter.

  • Resting period between bloom cycles is generally longer than the other classes (but I find not as long as the non-DA climbers in my collection).

Shrub Roses (David Austin (DA) garden roses are in this class)

  • Plant habit: greatest variation in size and spread between cultivars in this class; many in my collection tend to be sprawling and arching in habit, some can become giant octopi.

  • DA roses are pretty hardy but they really do not like the heat of summer.

  • Stems are much more pliable and thin; most lend themselves to an arching habit with graceful movement (Queen of Sweden is upright. I don’t have ALL the DA’s so can only speak about the ones I grow).

  • The distinctive beauty of the DA look is remarkable, reminiscent of old garden roses; fragrance generally strong.

  • Vase life is relatively short, some varieties shatter quickly.

  • Prune more conservatiely than other classes, particularly when young. For example, if you dormant prune everything less than a diameter of a pencil off, you might not be left with very much at all in the early years.

  • Range of bloom sizes and can be packed with petals.

  • *Note: David Austin cut flower trade roses are grown only by a few large, commercial growers. David Austin garden roses are what small scale farmers and gardeners have access to.

Grandiflora roses as cut flowers

  • Result of a cross between hybrid teas and floribundas so intermediate in characteristics between the two.

  • Generally taller than floribundas with longer stems, blooms singly or in clusters. Has an upright habit and flowers that range from floribunda size to slightly smaller than hybrid tea size.

  • Fragrance varies between cultivars: some are extremely fragrant, others have a pleasing, soft scent.

Climbing roses as cut flowers

  • This class has the largest variability but share vigorous growth as a trait. There are DA roses that can be grown as large shrubs or traditional climbers (eg Teasing Georgia, Crown Priness Margareta), others are best suited to train along a structure. Be sure to read variety descriptions well.

  • True climbers take at least 2 full seasons to establish, as you’ll need to initially establish a framework of canes.

  • Pruning and maintenance for true climbers differ from other modern classes. Espalier will encourage a plethora of blooms.

  • The varieties in my collection have a soft fragrance and large flowers. The time between bloom cycles is longer than other classes. I do not have rambling roses (even more vigorous than climbers, smaller sized flowers in clusters, sometimes once blooming like the famous “Lady Banks” who I’ve seen in some gorgeous designs).

  • Hardiness is important in our area since winter protection will be challenging.

  • DA climbers possess their characteristic arching habit, other climbers appear to be more upright. Mileage will vary depending on genetics.

Hope this information is helpful in determining which roses you’d like to design with or add to your garden this coming year! If you are more of a visual learner (or just enjoy being around a bounty of beautiful flowers!), I’ll be hosting some on farm events featuring roses this coming season. Please consider signing up for my email list to receive announcements.

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